Investor or dealer? Which are you? Presumably
you’re an investor. Buy you may find yourself having so much fun buying
properties and fixing them up and reselling them that pretty soon you own quite
a string a duplexes and small apartment buildings in various stages of
renovation. If you continue to buy and sell, sooner or later somebody in the
Internal Revenue Service is going to look at your tax return and say, “This
person is a dealer in real estate. These properties are dealer properties. “
If the IRS classifies you as a dealer, your transactions will be taxed as
ordinary income instead of capital gains – which means, of course, they’ll
be taxed twice as heavily.
You can do two things to lessen the chance of looking like
a dealer. One is to state very clearly, in the papers you submit when you buy a
property, that you’re buying it for investment purposes or for your personal
investment portfolio. The second is to act like an investor, not like a dealer.
Actions speak louder than any words you write. If you buy and sell too often in
too short a time, you’ll be running a high risk of being classified as a
professional real estate dealer.
This is another reason why you’re better off to keep your
sales transactions to a minimum and trade wherever possible. But try not to
trade each property individually. Put together a package of four, five, six, or
seven of them and trade these for one big building. Maybe the big building’s
owner doesn’t want your smaller properties, but you’ve already seen how to
overcome this obstacle. You tell your broker to find other parties to take over
the properties from their new owner as soon as the exchange has been completed.
You thus pack several transactions into one. You also strengthen your image as
an investor.
Using the depreciation is one of the most important
techniques that make real estate investors wealthy. You get a substantial tax
shelter through the depreciation allowances you can take on buildings,
equipment, and furnishings.
Take a look at the depreciable improvements, too, when
you’re sizing up a property you might want to trade for. Are they large, or
smaller, in relation to the value of thee land under the property you now own?
You remember, of course, that land can’t be depreciated. So if you trade for a
property where the value of the depreciable improvements is relatively greater
as compared with the land, you can cut your tax bill further.
In general, the best way to boost your depreciation
allowances is to trade up. Stated as simply as possible, your new property’s
tax basis will be its fair market value minus any gain on the old property that
hasn’t been recognized for tax purposes. Or, stated in a much more roundabout
way, it will be:
- The
adjusted basis of the old property;
- PLUS
boot given;
- MINUS
boot received;
- PLUS
mortgages you assume on new property;
- MINUS
mortgages on your old property;
- PLUS
any taxed gain on old property.
Here’s an example. Suppose the property you now own has a
tax basis of $20,000, a market value of $50,000, and a mortgage debt of $10,000
outstanding against it. You exchange this property for one worth $140,000
encumbered by a $95,000 mortgage, which you assume. To make up the difference in
equities you toss in cash boot of $5,000. the exchange will be totally tax-free
to you, because you get no net mortgage relief or other boot.
By such a trade, you rake in a bonanza. You now own a
property three times as valuable as the old one, and presumably with a net
operating income some three times as great. In addition, you’ve upped your tax
basis from $20,000 to $110,000 – entitling you to take several times as much
annual depreciation on your future tax returns.
You can determine your new tax basis by either of the two
methods mentioned above. If you use the first, simply subtract your unrecognized
gain of $30,000 (the $50,000 fair market value of the property you traded away,
minus its $20,000 tax basis) from the $140,000 fair market value of the property
you acquire.
If you use the second, you add to the $20,000 basis of your
old property the $95,000 mortgage you’re taking on, and the $5,000 in cash
you’re coughing up as boot; from this total you subtract the $10,000 debt
you’re getting rid of. The basis of the property isn’t affected by your
profit on the old, because you won’t be paying any tax on this gain.
Is it always better to exchange? Some real estate
people will contend that in a situation like the one above it might be better to
sell the old property, pay the capital gains tax on the profit, and buy the new
in a separate transaction. Their reasoning might run something like this:
You would fatten the tax basis of the property you were
acquiring from $110,000 to $140,000, thereby swelling the depreciation you could
ultimately take on the new property proportionately, and
You would be paying a tax on your gain at capital gains
rates (that is, generally paying tax on only half your gain at whatever ordinary
tax rates would apply) while being able to deduct every dollar of whatever
additional depreciation you could take from future income.
They could be right from a strictly tax angel – depending
mostly on how the gain would affect your tax bracket in the year or years
you’d be liable for taxes on it, and what your income might otherwise be in
the years in which you’d be taking the extra depreciation. But you should look
at other angles besides taxes. Whether you sell your old property on terms that
render the gain immediately taxable or qualify the sale for installment
treatment, you’ll have much less available to reinvest than if you exchange.
In fact, there might be a serious question as to whether you’d be able to buy
the new property at all. You might find the owner was still expecting a down
payment of $40,000, while all you could scrape up after considering your
liability for taxes and / or the borrowing power or discount value of your paper
was $32,500. Whatever the circumstances, you wouldn’t be able to control as
valuable a property on reinvesting, nor could you step up to the same high tax
basis you were seeking.
A dollar now is worth much more to you than a dollar one
year or ten years from now, if only because of what you can earn with it in the
meantime. It might take you ten, fifteen, or twenty years to save as much in
taxes from an additional depreciation deduction as you’d pay out in taxes if
you were to sell instead of exchange. And this isn’t even considering the
value of the additional property you could probably acquire with the tax money
in the meantime!
All this, of course, is one more reason for having a
competent tax consultant (and preferably one who works extensively in real
estate matters) review and advise you on any contemplated sale, exchange, or
purchase of real estate. I can state only general principles here. There could
be situation where, despite the advantages I have mentioned, a sale instead of
an exchange would be better for you.
One such situation might be where you’re disposing of
property at a loss. Losses realized in qualified exchanges aren’t counted for
income tax purposes, and any boot received in the exchange merely results in an
adjustment to the tax basis of the property being exchanged. If y our other
income is such that you can take advantage of the loss, you’ll probably be
better off selling the old property and buying the new in separate transactions.